can you get selvedge denim in the us

Can You Get Selvedge Denim in the US? A Guide to American Raw Denim

The short, resounding answer is yes, you absolutely can get selvedge denim in the United States. In fact, the US is not just a market for this premium fabric; it’s a global epicenter for its production, innovation, and culture. The question isn’t if you can find it, but where you should look and what makes American selvedge so special.

For the uninitiated, “selvedge” (a colloquial term for “self-edge”) denim refers to fabric woven on old-style shuttle looms. This creates a tightly woven, narrower band of denim with a clean, finished edge—often featuring a colored “id line”—that prevents unraveling. This method, which was the standard before the efficiency of modern projectile looms, results in a denser, more durable, and character-rich fabric that is highly sought after by denim enthusiasts.

The American Selvedge Renaissance

The story of selvedge denim in the US is one of decline and triumphant return. For decades, American textile mills shuttered as production moved overseas. Iconic brands that once relied on domestic denim turned to international suppliers. However, fueled by a growing demand for quality, heritage, and transparency, a selvedge renaissance began in the early 2000s. Today, the landscape is thriving, built on three key pillars:

1. Legendary American Mills
2. Heritage and Workwear Brands
3. A Vibrant Network of Specialty Retailers

Real-World Cases: Where to Find American Selvedge Denim

1. The Iconic American Mill: Cone Mills White Oak Plant

No discussion of American selvedge is complete without Cone Mills. For over a century, its White Oak plant in Greensboro, North Carolina, was the soul of American denim. It was the last major mill in the US producing selvedge denim on its vintage Draper X3 looms.

• The Legacy: While the mill closed its doors in 2017, its impact is everlasting. The fabric it produced was the backbone of countless jeans, known for its unique character and “slubby” texture. Brands that used White Oak denim, like Tellason and Left Field NYC, still have a cult following.
• The Revival: The story doesn’t end there. The name and some of the original machinery were acquired by ISKO, a global denim giant, which now produces “Cone Denim” fabric in its US facilities, ensuring the legacy continues, albeit in a new form.

2. The Modern American Mill: Cone Denim (Now under ISKO) & Mount Vernon Mills

Following the closure of White Oak, the mantle of producing selvedge denim on American soil has been taken up by other players.

• Cone Denim: Now operating under ISKO’s ownership, Cone continues to produce selvedge denim in the USA, supplying both major brands and smaller artisans. They have maintained a focus on innovation while respecting their heritage.
• Mount Vernon Mills: Another historic American textile manufacturer, Mount Vernon produces selvedge denim that is used by several prominent brands, proving that the expertise for weaving this premium fabric is still very much alive in the US.

3. Heritage Brands Weaving a New Story

Many US-based brands are not just using American selvedge; they are defining the modern interpretation of the American jean.

• Tellason: Based in San Francisco, Tellason was one of the last brands to receive a massive roll of selvedge denim from the White Oak plant before it closed. They are a prime example of a brand deeply committed to American manufacturing, from the denom to the sewing.
• Raleigh Denim Workshop: Founded in Raleigh, North Carolina, this brand embodies the artisanal spirit. They partner with Cone Denim to source fabric and then handcraft every pair in their own studio, focusing on perfect fits and meticulous construction.
• 3sixteen: A New York-based brand beloved in the denim world, 3sixteen works closely with American mills to create custom, heavyweight selvedge denim fabrics that are exclusive to them, showcasing how brands can drive fabric innovation.
• Shockoe Atelier: Operating out of Richmond, Virginia—a city with a deep denim history—Shockoe focuses on minimalist, well-constructed jeans and jackets using premium American selvedge denim.

4. The Japanese Connection: A Tale of Two Cultures

Interestingly, the US is also the primary home for many Japanese selvedge denim brands that have achieved legendary status. Brands like Pure Blue Japan, Momotaro, and The Flat Head chose to establish their flagship US retail presence, recognizing the sophisticated and passionate market.

• Self Edge (with stores in New York, Los Angeles, and San Francisco) and Blue in Green (New York) are iconic retailers that specialize almost exclusively in Japanese selvedge denim. They are a testament to the fact that while you can find domestically produced selvedge in the US, you can also find the world’s best curated selvedge here.

5. Accessible American Selvedge

The selvedge market isn’t just for niche artisans. Mainstream heritage brands have made it more accessible than ever.

• Levi’s Vintage Clothing (LVC): Levi’s own premium line uses selvedge denim to faithfully reproduce fits from its archives. For many, owning a pair of selvedge Levi’s made with American fabric is the ultimate denim purchase.
• J.Crew: The preppy powerhouse has frequently collaborated with Japanese and American mills to offer selvedge denim as part of its collection, introducing the fabric to a wider, more fashion-conscious audience.

Where to Shop for Selvedge Denim in the US

You don’t need to travel to Japan or scour the internet. You can find selvedge denim at:

• Specialty Boutiques: Stores like Self Edge, Blue Owl Workshop (Seattle), and Franklin & Poe (Philadelphia) offer expert advice and a curated selection of both American and international brands.
• Brand Flagship Stores: Brands like Tellason, Raleigh Denim, and 3sixteen have their own stores or workshops.
• Department Stores: High-end retailers like Barneys New York (before its acquisition) and Nordstrom often carry selvedge denim from brands like Naked & Famous or AG.
• Online: Nearly all these brands and retailers have robust e-commerce platforms, making it easy to purchase from anywhere in the country.

Conclusion: The Answer is a Resounding Yes

So, can you get selvedge denim in the US? Absolutely. The United States offers a complete selvedge denim ecosystem. From the historic and revived mills producing the fabric, to the homegrown brands crafting it into heirloom-quality jeans, to the world-class retailers curating global selections, the American selvedge scene is rich, diverse, and deeply rooted in a legacy of quality. Whether you’re seeking a piece of living history from a brand like Tellason, the artisanal touch of Raleigh Denim, or the exotic character of Japanese denim from a store like Self Edge, your perfect pair of selvedge jeans is waiting for you right here.