How can you check the quality of a pair of jeans?

Buying the perfect pair of jeans can feel like a quest. You’re not just looking for a style that fits your body; you’re investing in a garment that should last for years. The secret to finding those long-lasting, great-fitting jeans lies in understanding how to assess their quality. While brand names and price tags can be indicators, true quality is revealed in the details.

This guide will walk you through the key areas to inspect, from the fabric to the final stitch, empowering you to spot a well-made pair of jeans every time. We’ll also look at how different manufacturers, from heritage brands to modern innovators, put these principles into practice.

1. The Foundation: Fabric and Denim Weight

The journey of quality begins with the denim itself.

• Look for Selvedge Denim: Short for “self-edged,” selvedge denim is woven on traditional shuttle looms, producing a tightly woven, durable fabric with a clean, finished edge on the outseam, often marked with a colored thread (redline being the most famous). This is a hallmark of premium jeans.
• Understand Denim Weight: Weight is measured in ounces per square yard (oz).
  • Lightweight (8-10 oz): Feels like chambray, ideal for summer but less durable.
  • Mid-weight (12-14 oz): The sweet spot for most. Durable yet comfortable, it will break in nicely.
  • Heavyweight (15+ oz): Stiff and rugged initially, this denim is incredibly durable and develops deep, personal fades over time.

Real-World Case Study: Levi’s® vs. Naked & Famous
Compare a standard Levi’s 511 (often using 11-12oz non-selvedge denim) to a pair from Naked & Famous Denim. Naked & Famous exclusively uses mid-to-heavyweight Japanese selvedge denim, often in unique fabrics like 32oz “beast” denim. The difference in hand-feel, density, and long-term fading potential is immediately apparent, justifying the higher price point for enthusiasts.

2. The Blueprint: Pattern and Fit Consistency

A high-quality manufacturer cuts denim with precision. Lay the jeans flat and check if the legs are symmetrical. The patterns (the pieces of fabric cut to make the jeans) should align correctly, especially at the seams. Poorly patterned jeans will twist on the leg or feel unbalanced when worn.

3. The Backbone: Stitching and Thread

This is where you can easily separate mass-produced jeans from quality ones.

• Thread Type and Color: Look for thick, durable thread. Contrasting stitching (like the classic orange on blue) is a style choice, but thread-matched stitching is often used on raw denim for a cleaner fade.
• Stitch Density (SPI): Stitches Per Inch is a critical metric. Higher SPI (8-10+) indicates tighter, stronger, and more meticulous construction. Low SPI (5-6) is a sign of faster, cheaper manufacturing.
• Stitch Types:
  • Lockstitch: Used on most seams, it’s strong and reliable.
  • Chainstitch: A classic, slightly elastic stitch used on the hem and waistband. It creates roping—a desirable fading effect at the hem over time.

Real-World Case Study: A.P.C.
French brand A.P.C. is renowned for its minimalist style and excellent construction. Examine a pair of A.P.C. jeans, and you’ll find consistent, high-SPI stitching throughout. Their focus on perfecting a few core fits means their pattern-making is exceptionally reliable, leading to a predictable and celebrated fit.

4. The Hardware: Buttons, Rivets, and Zippers

Hardware is both functional and a signature of quality.

• Buttons and Rivets: These should be made of solid, non-rusting metal like brass or copper. Look for branded rivets (e.g., the “V” on vintage Lee rivets) and shanks that are securely punched and clamped (called “crinking”).
• Zippers: A heavy-duty zipper from a reputable manufacturer like YKK or Riri is a very good sign. Riri zippers, often used on luxury brands, are particularly smooth and robust.

Real-World Case Study: Wrangler Cowboy Cut
Wrangler’s classic 13MWZ “Cowboy Cut” jeans are a testament to functional hardware. They use sturdy YKK zippers and iconic “W” branded rivets and buttons, designed to withstand the rigors of ranch work. This demonstrates that quality hardware isn’t just for high-fashion brands but is essential for durability in any context.

5. The Reinforcements: Bar Tacks and Rivets

Stress points are where jeans fail first. A quality manufacturer reinforces them.

• Bar Tacks: These are dense clusters of stitching at points of strain: the top of the fly, the base of the fly, pocket openings, and the crotch. They should look solid and neat.
• Rivets: Placed on pocket corners, they prevent the fabric from tearing under the weight of a pocket tool or wallet.

6. The Details: Leather Patch and Pocketing

• Leather Patch: A genuine leather or high-quality synthetic patch indicates a brand’s attention to detail. It should be neatly stitched on, not just glued.
• Pocket Bag Material: Cheap jeans use flimsy, non-woven fabric for the back pockets. Quality jeans use a sturdy cotton twill or herringbone fabric that is strong and comfortable against the skin.

Real-World Case Study: Tellason
San Francisco-based Tellason exemplifies “no shortcuts” manufacturing. They use 100% cotton, heavy-weight selvedge denim, reinforced with bar tacks at all stress points. Their pocket bags are made from a robust cotton twill, and they use a high-quality leather patch. Every component is chosen for longevity, reflecting their “buy once, buy well” philosophy.

7. The Finish: Washing, Dyeing, and Environmental Impact

• Shrink-to-Fit (Unsaned/Unwashed): The purest form of denim, it allows you to mold the jeans to your body. The quality is in the raw fabric itself.
• Washed/Distressed: Check the consistency of whiskers, honeycombs, and abrasions. In high-quality jeans, these look natural. In cheap pairs, they can look laser-printed and uniform.
• Environmental Considerations: Many quality manufacturers now prioritize sustainable practices. Look for brands that use organic cotton, Oeko-Tex certified dyes (free of harmful chemicals), and water-efficient laser finishing.

Conclusion: Becoming a Denim Detective

You don’t need to be a manufacturer to spot a well-made pair of jeans. By taking five minutes to feel the fabric, inspect the stitching, and test the hardware, you can make an informed decision. Remember, quality jeans are an investment. They may cost more upfront, but their superior construction, better fit, and unique aging process make them a far better value over time. The next time you’re shopping, use this checklist—you’ll never look at a pair of jeans the same way again.